How to Change Brake Pads (UK DIY)
Changing front brake pads is one of the most satisfying jobs a competent DIYer can tackle at home, and on most cars it's straightforward with basic tools. Brakes are safety-critical, though, so this is a job to do carefully and never rush. If you're at all unsure, leave it to a professional. This guide covers the typical disc-brake setup found on most modern cars.
What you'll need
- A trolley jack and a pair of axle stands (never work under a car held only by a jack)
- Wheel brace and the correct socket set
- Brake caliper piston tool or a large G-clamp to retract the piston
- Brake cleaner and a wire brush
- Copper grease (for slide pins and pad backs, never the friction surface)
- Torque wrench
- New pads — and inspect the discs while you're in there
Get the right kit together first and the job goes smoothly. You'll find pads in our brake pads range, and if your discs or calipers need attention you can sort those at the same time from our brake calipers collection. A torque wrench and basic service tools are in automotive tools and workshop equipment.
Before you start
Work on a flat, solid surface with the handbrake on (you'll release it for rear pads). Loosen the wheel bolts while the car is still on the ground, then jack up, support on axle stands, and remove the wheel. Always do brakes in axle pairs — both fronts or both rears together — so the car stops evenly.
Step-by-step
- Inspect first. With the wheel off, check the disc surface for deep scoring, lips or cracks, and look at the old pad thickness. Badly worn discs should be replaced as a pair.
- Unbolt the caliper. Remove the lower slider/guide bolt and swing the caliper up, or remove both and lift it clear. Support its weight — never let it hang on the flexible brake hose.
- Remove the old pads and note how any shims, springs or wear-sensor clips are fitted.
- Clean up. Wire-brush the caliper carrier and clean the slide pins. Seized slides are a common cause of uneven wear, so check they move freely.
- Retract the piston. Wind or press the piston back into the caliper with your tool or G-clamp so the new, thicker pads will fit. Some rear calipers wind in with a turning motion — check before forcing.
- Fit the new pads. Apply a smear of copper grease to the pad backing plates and slide points only — keep it well away from the friction material and disc.
- Reassemble. Refit the caliper and torque the bolts to the manufacturer's figure with your torque wrench. Don't guess these.
- Refit the wheel and torque the bolts to spec.
The most important step: pump the pedal
Before you drive anywhere, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. The first presses take up the gap you created when retracting the pistons. If you skip this, your first stop on the road may have almost no brakes. Then check your brake fluid reservoir level and top up only with the correct specification fluid if needed — we don't supply fluids, so use the type stated in your handbook.
Bedding-in your new pads
New pads and discs need bedding in to transfer an even layer of friction material and reach full performance. A typical method is a series of moderate stops from around 30 mph, easing off well before a complete halt, repeated several times, then allowing the brakes to cool with gentle driving. Always follow the maker's specific bedding instructions on the pack. Expect a slightly different feel and possibly a little smell for the first few miles — that's normal.
Finding the right pads
Use your registration, VIN or the OE part number to confirm the correct pad set for your exact variant — same model, different trim can mean different brakes. If you're working on an older or discontinued model and can't find a listing, send us a request-a-part enquiry with the make, model, year and any part numbers, and we'll help track the correct set down.
Quick safety reminders
- Axle stands, always — never just a jack.
- Do brakes in axle pairs.
- Never let the caliper hang on the hose.
- Torque every bolt to spec.
- Pump the pedal before moving.
- Bed the pads in properly.
Frequently asked questions
- How long does it take to change front brake pads at home?
- For a confident DIYer with the right tools, around one to two hours for an axle pair. Allow longer the first time, and never rush a safety-critical job.
- Do I need to replace the discs when I change the pads?
- Not always. Inspect the discs for deep scoring, a heavy lip or cracks. If they're worn beyond the minimum thickness or badly grooved, replace them as a pair.
- Why must I pump the brake pedal before driving?
- Retracting the caliper pistons opens up a gap. The first few pedal presses take up that gap and bring the pads to the disc. Skip it and your first stop could have little or no braking.